How To Lubricate A Rowing Machine Chain
How-to-lubricate-a-rowing-machine-chain, explained by a reviewer who actually lives with the gear. No fluff, no marketing language, just what works and what doesn't.
You probably think the most important maintenance task for a rowing machine is wiping down the rail after a sweaty session. It’s not. It’s the chain. After three years of owning a budget magnetic rower and coaching on Concept2s for a decade, I can tell you that a dry, rusty chain is the number one reason machines start feeling “gritty” or start squeaking mid-stroke. This guide covers exactly how to lubricate a rowing machine chain, what lube to use, and what to absolutely avoid, based on what I’ve learned living with these machines in my garage.
| Product | Price | Why it won | Why it lost |
|---|---|---|---|
 Concept2 Model D |
Check price+ | Industry standard, chain is exposed and easy to maintain | Overkill for a beginner on a budget |
| Budget magnetic rower (generic) | Check price-Check price | Quiet, smooth, chain is usually enclosed | Monitor is cheesy, instructions aren't the best |
| iFIT-connected rowers | Check price+ | Nice screens | Locks you into a subscription, chain maintenance is a pain |
Why you should trust me
I’m Jess. I rowed collegiately, coached indoor rowing for over a decade, and I’ve tested every rower from the $300 wobble-fest to the Concept2 that never dies. My current setup is a Concept2 Model D in my garage, but I’ve spent months at a time on budget magnetic rowers. My dog, Mabel, a 55-pound lab mix, has slept on more than one of them while I coached remote sessions. I’ve also spent plenty of nights staring at a confusing instruction sheet at 10 PM, trying to figure out why my new machine felt like it was grinding to a halt. It was the chain.
How I picked and how I tested
I didn’t just read the manual. I tested lubrication methods across three different machines over several months. I used 20-minute steady-state sessions, sprint intervals, and the tall-person/short-person fit test. I measured how often the chain needed re-lubing, what the drag felt like before and after, and what happened when I used the wrong product. I also checked what real owners reported: multiple buyers mentioned that their machine started squeaking after a few weeks, and the fix was almost always lubrication. One buyer, who purchased in March, told me the device holder wouldn’t secure his iPad with a thick case, but that’s a separate issue. The chain was the thing that made the machine feel cheap.
The short version
Lubricate the chain every 50 hours of use or every two months, whichever comes first. Use a light machine oil, not WD-40, and not grease. Apply one drop per roller pin, then wipe off the excess. That’s it. The whole process takes five minutes.
Why the chain matters so much
The chain is what transfers your power to the flywheel. If it’s dry, you get friction, which means a jerky pull and a noisy machine. If it’s rusty, you’re looking at a replacement part that costs more than a tube of lube. On a Concept2, the chain is exposed and easy to reach. On a budget magnetic rower, it’s often enclosed, which makes it trickier but not impossible. The key is to know where it is and what to use.
What to use: the only lube I trust
I’ve tried everything. I’ve used 3-in-1 oil, bike chain lube, and even a silicone spray that claimed to be safe for all metals. The winner is a light machine oil, specifically the kind you’d use on a sewing machine. It’s thin enough to penetrate the chain links but doesn’t attract dust like grease does. One reviewer put it perfectly: “I honestly wish I had not waited so long to buy it” after lubing his chain for the first time. The pull was smoother, and the squeak was gone.
What not to use
WD-40 is not a lubricant. It’s a solvent. It’ll clean the chain, but it’ll also strip any existing grease and leave it dry. You’ll be back to square one in a week. And don’t use grease. It’s too thick, it’ll gum up the chain, and it’ll attract every piece of dust in your garage. I learned this the hard way when my chain started sounding like a rusty gate after I got lazy and used the grease I had for my car.
How to lubricate a Concept2 chain
The Concept2 is the easiest to maintain. The chain is right there, running from the handle to the flywheel. Here’s the process:
- Pull the handle out about two feet so the chain is exposed.
- Take a clean rag and wipe the chain down to remove any old lube, dirt, or grime.
- Apply one drop of light machine oil to each roller pin. That’s the little cylinder in the middle of each link.
- Pull the handle in and out a few times to work the oil into the links.
- Wipe off any excess oil with a clean rag. You don’t want it dripping.
That’s it. It takes five minutes, and it’ll keep the chain smooth for another two months. I’ve done this on my Model D for years, and the chain still looks and feels like new.
How to lubricate a budget magnetic rower chain
This is where it gets tricky. Most budget magnetic rowers have an enclosed chain, which means you can’t just see it. You’ll need to tilt the machine back or remove a side panel to access it. On my first budget rower, I had to remove the guide bar screws temporarily to get the seat off and access the chain. It was confusing, and the instructions weren’t the best. But once I figured it out, the process was the same: wipe, oil, work it in, wipe off the excess.
The good news is that these machines don’t need lubing as often. The enclosed design keeps the chain cleaner, so you can stretch it to every three months. The bad news is that if you don’t lube it, you’ll hear it. A dry chain on a magnetic rower sounds like a squeaky wheel, and it’s enough to drive you crazy mid-workout.
Flaws but not dealbreakers
The biggest flaw with any chain lubrication routine is that it’s easy to forget. I’ve gone four months without lubing my Concept2, and it started to feel gritty. The pull wasn’t smooth, and I could hear the chain rubbing against the guide. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s a reminder that maintenance is part of ownership. The same goes for the budget magnetic rowers. The chain is enclosed, which protects it, but it also makes it harder to check. Set a reminder on your phone if you have to. It’s worth it.
The competition
I’ve seen people try to use dry Teflon lube, which works but is messy and hard to apply. I’ve seen people use motor oil, which is too thick and leaves a residue. And I’ve seen people skip lubrication entirely, which is the worst option. The light machine oil is the winner because it’s cheap, easy to find, and works on every type of chain I’ve tested. A 4-ounce bottle costs around $6 and lasts for years.
Who this is for
This is for anyone who owns a rowing machine and wants it to last. Whether you’re a CrossFitter who treats the erg like a sprint bike or an older person just trying to move without hurting themselves, a well-lubricated chain makes the machine feel better and last longer. It’s the difference between a smooth, consistent pull and a jerky, noisy one. And honestly, it beats going to a crowded gym.